Kamakura, Japan – September 1999

Standing amongst the delicately scented flower gardens of Kamakura, and

soaking up the deep sense of history which seems to seep from every

crevice of the numerous temples and shrines, it is almost impossible to

believe that you are only a short hop from the bustling Tokyo

metropolitan centre. A sense of peace and tranquillity hangs heavy in

the air, even if you visit, as I did, during the middle of a national

holiday.

Kamakura, surrounded by forested mountains on three sides, and Sagami

Bay on the other is one of the former capitals of Japan (1185 – 1333).

Some History

In 1192 Minamoto-no-Yoritomo, the leader of the house Genji,

threatened the Emperor for the sovereignty to rule Japan. The Emperor

assigned him Seii-tai-shogun, an emergency post with the power to

command the whole military for the purpose of conquering barbarians.

Theoretically speaking, the post was under the Emperor. However, in

practise, a shogun could move armies without the Emperor’s permission,

so Minamoto-no-Yoritomo was the strongest in Japan. He established his

own military government at Kamakura, independent from the Emperor and

its bureaucracy in Kyoto, and named it Bakufu. This government

continued to govern the whole country successfully for more than a

century.

Today, a trip to Kamakura is without doubt one of the few

absolute ‘must-do’ day trips in Tokyo. It is one of the few places

which lives up, if not surpasses, the guidebook hyperbole often

lavished on it. Avoid the crowds and you are in for something just a

little bit special.

Within the city of Kamakura, there are twenty-six national, two prefectural, and nine municipal historic sites. The main attractions are close together and best be seen in a day of gentle walking. The main areas of interest are well signposted in both English and Japanese, but the Kamakura Tourist Information Centre (0467-22-3350), which is just outside Kamakura station can provide any number of detailed maps and guides and should be able to help you book accommodation.

With about 70 temples and shrines, Kamakura is a challenge for even the

die-hard temple-basher. If you, like myself, don’t fall into this

category, combining a walk past the major sites with a long relaxing

lay on Kamakura’s pristine beach is an ideal compromise.

Engaju-ji Temple

The closest railway station to the main attractions in Kamakura is Kita

Kamakura. Turning left out of the station takes you to the Engaju-ji

temple. This is perhaps one of the nicest temples in Kamakura, if not

Japan and even has enough charm to refresh the jaded ‘temple bashers’

palate.

It is one of the five main Rinzai Zen temples in Kamakura. Rinzai is a school of Buddhism which started about 1000 years ago and is still practised in Japan today. Originally built in 1282 as a temple

for the souls of the Japanese who had died repelling the Mongol hordes

of Kublai Khan, it was given the name Engaju after the sutra of perfect

enlightenment which is enshrined in the temple precincts.

The temple has been ravaged by fire on several occasions, but each time it has been lovingly reconstructed to retrain the austere atmosphere which is essential to the Zen way of life.

Entrance to the temple is through the San-mon gate. This gate, which

was rebuilt in 1783 and is adorned with framed calligraphy of the

Emperor Fushimi, is a fitting reminder of the former magnificence and

antiquity of this peaceful temple. Climbing higher into the temple

precincts, past pungent flower gardens and sensually sculptured willow

trees leads to the Engaku-ji bell. This bell, which was cast in 1301

is the oldest bell in Kamakura and is symbolic of the style and

accomplishment of the Kamakuran period artists.

In addition to the tranquil gardens, the temple also offers a number of

Zen meetings throughout the year. These range from daily Zen meetings

(5.30-6.30am each morning), to weekend Zen society meetings (5pm

Saturday) and an intensive course which takes place in July. Further

details can be obtained on 0467-22-0478.

Tokei-ji Temple

Opposite the Engaju-ji temple is the Tokei-ji temple. This is a

wonderfully understated temple, quite different in character to the

Engaju-ji Temple. The relaxing and well planned grounds previously

formed a refuge for abused women. The women, after spending three

years here, could then be officially recognised as divorced. Entrance

to this serene temple, which is often neglected by the main tourist

parties, is ¥100.

I spent a quiet and relaxing hour soaking up the

ambience here surrounded by a gaggle of Japanese housewifes who decked

out in the latest fashions and all clutching their mobile phones seemed

a long way away from previous inhabitants.

Kencho-ji Temple

Continuing my way towards the town centre, I reached the Kencho Ji

Temple. This is ranked as the most important of the five great Zen

temples in Kamakura, and that alone, makes it worth the visit.

Originally, the temple consisted of 7 main buildings and 49 subtemples,

but most of these were destroyed in a series of fires during the 14th

and 15th centuries. At present the temple complex contains about 10

subtemples, and a handful of buildings which were restored in the

Tokugawa period. Entrance to the temple is through an impressively

carved gate. Legend has it that a badger, in order to repay the

kindness shown to him by the local priests, helped construct the

temple by turning himself into a monk.

Inscribed close to the temple entrance is the legend ‘If you have lost your true self, all phenomena bring you nothing but annoyance. If you discover your essence of mind, you can follow nothing but the true path’. Which is the doctrine taught by the Daikaku Zenji, the founder of the temple, and good advice for todayÂ’s stressed out day tripper.

Passing through perfumed flower gardens and juniper bushes, whose seeds

were brought from China over 700 years ago, leads to the Butsuden

(Buddha Hall) and the Karamon (Chinese Gate). Both of these

structures, which are classified as culturally important were moved

piece by piece to their present location in 1647.

The temple also contains an charming garden which features a pond in

the shape of the Japanese characters representing ‘mind’. The pond is

know as the ‘Shinji Ike’, or mind-character pond.

Hachiman-gu Shrine

In contrast to the tranquil, almost dreamy atmosphere of the Kenhoji

and Tokei-ji temples, the Hachiman-gu Shinto shrine is consumerism in

your face and bustling with hawkers, souvenir sellers and fortune

tellers. It is Japan inc. at its busiest and most appealing and a

million miles away from the Western idea of a place of worship.

Close to the entrance of the shrine is a gingko tree beneath which it is said that a famous political assassination was carried out in 1219.

Close to this is an arched bridge which was designated as the crossing

place for the Shogun and no-one else. Today, it is generally alive

with tourists and the click of cameras.

The Great Buddha

This bronze statue of Amita Buddha, which is worshipped by the

followers of the Pure Land sect of Buddhism as a saviour, was cast in

1252 and is Kamakura’s most important, and therefore crowded, tourist

site.

Once housed in a huge hall, the statue today sits in the open,

its home having been washed away by a tsunami in 1495. Cast in bronze

and weighing close to 850 tonnes, the statue is 13.35 metres tall. The

latest repairs to the Buddha were completed in 1960. These

strengthened the neck and made it possible for the Buddha’s body to

move freely on the base to prevent a damaging shock to the statue in

case of an earthquake. Equally as impressive as the statue itself are

the statue’s slippers which can be found on display in the compound.

Hase-dera Temple

Close to the Great Buddha, but less crowded, is the Hase-dera temple.

The patron saint of this temple is Jizo, who is the guardian of the

souls of departed children. Near to the entrance, lined up like school

children on parade are a number of statues dedicated to Jizo. These

are often clothed by local women who have lost children through

abortion or miscarriage and come to the statutes to offer prayers for

their loved ones. The main point of interest is however, the Kannon

statue.

Kannon, the goddess of mercy, is the bodhisvatta of infinite compassion and along with Jizo is one of Japan’s most enduring and popular Buddhist deities. The nine metre wooden carved, 11 faced Kannon here is believed to be very very old, and dates from about the 8th century. The 11 faces are actually one major face and 10 minor ones which represent the 10 stages of enlightenment. It is commonly believed that the 11 faces allow Kannon to keep a watchful eye on people in peril in all directions.

General Info Section

Getting There

Getting to Kamakura from central Tokyo is relatively easy. Yokosuka

line trains run from Tokyo directly to Kamakura in about an hour (¥880).

It is also possible to catch a train from Yokohama to Kamakura.

(25 minutes, ¥320). It is more convenient to get off the train at

Kita Kamakura and enjoy a temple lined stroll into town than to get off

at the busy Kamakura station and spend the day backtracking.

There are also a wide range of “free passes” which are valid for

sightseeing in the Kamakura and Enoshima region. The JR Kamakura- Enoshima pass, which offers possibly the best deal, is valid

for two days and allows for transport on Japan Railways around the

whole region.

From Tokyo station the pass costs ¥1900 or ¥1080 from Yokohama station.

A similar deal is offered from Odakyu. Their “A ticket” includes the

added attraction of free use of the bus network in the Kamakura region.

It costs ¥1980 from Shinjuku station and is valid for two days.

Places To Stay

Many people avoid the cost of staying in Kamakura by making the trip in

a day from Tokyo. Although this is a definite possibility, the

opportunity to soak up some tourist free ambience after the day

tripping crowds have departed should not dismissed.

The Kamakura Tourist Information Centre (0467-22-3350), just outside

Kamakura station, not only provides detailed maps and guides but will also help you book accommodation.

The centrally-located (a five minute walk from Kamakura stn.) Hotel Kamakura Mori (0467-22-5868) not only has comfortable, attractive rooms but a good Chinese restaurant in the basement (skip the gyoza but do try the tan-tan men). Doubles start at ¥9000 and triples at ¥7600 per person (without meals).

Places to Eat

Starving to death should not be a major worry for visitors to Kamakura.

For those in search of some instant nutritional gratification, the

station area harbours a wide variety of the inevitable fast food

joints, coffee shops and ice cream parlours.

For more traditional food, the main street towards the Hachiman shrine provides rich pickings. Here you can find restaurants representing the entire range of Japanese food, prices range from katsudon joints, where a filling meal will set you back about ¥800 to the more traditional Kaiseki restaurants for the more financially provided tourist.

Special Events

Setsubun is the annual bean throwing ceremony which is held throughout Japan on the 3-4th of February. The best place to see this is at the Hachiman Shrine.

The seal of Kamakura Hachiman-gu is taken out to stamp

people in hopes for a year without illnesses or natural disasters. It

is said that if you receive a stamp on your forehead, you can get rid

of your headache. It is also at this time of year people traditionally

throw beans around for good luck.

The Kamakura Matsuri is a week of celebrations held from the second Sunday to the third Sunday in April. Most of the colourful activities are centred around the Hachiman Shrine. Piled firewood is ignited at the temple gate, and monks-in-training would walk over the burning path as a trumpet shell is blown.

Those who wish to walk the path which is believed to ward off illnesses and natural disasters may do so as well after the monks.

The Nagoshi Festival on the 7th August, Risshu-sai Festival on the 8th, and Sanetomo Festival on the 9th make up Hachiman-gu Shrine’s biggest event of summer. During this major festival, bonbori lanterns with pictures and calligraphic works written by prominent scholars, actors, novelists and other cultural professionals in Kamakura are lit throughout the shrine grounds.

The Hachiman-gu Matsuri takes places between 14th and 16th of September and include traditional archery displays and a procession of mikoshi.

The final event of the year takes places on 18th September. The

Menkake-gyoretsu is a masked procession held at the Goryo-jinja shrine.

The Author

The author has been living in Japan for just over a year now and once got arrested in Malawi for gun running. He divides his time between freelance writing, research and a very nice beach in Mexico. A recent trip to Tibet has left him with the impression that the world is stranger then he previously believed.

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