As you touch down in Kathmandu, you wind your watch forward five hours and 45 minutes, and adjust your mind to a new space and time dimension. I lived in the city for many years, and every time I landed there I used to wonder where those precious 15 minutes had gone – and whether their absence had an unhinging effect on Nepal.
Particularly Kathmandu. I know no other city where everyday life contains so much palpable magic. Even the local newspapers are full of it; after three years of living in Nepal, reading headlines in The Kathmandu Post such as ‘Astrologers predict new government by May 28’ became unremarkable.
You always knew when the moon was full because a friend would call and ask you to come and watch the lighting of butter lamps around the Buddhist shrine of Bodhnath. Occasional traffic jams caused by the six-year-old Living Goddess being carried around town in her palanquin were something you just took in your stride.
Kathmandu unleashes an assault on your senses and common sense; nothing is quite what you expect. ATM stands for ‘Any Time Money’; you might see dogs wearing garlands of marigolds if it happens to be the day of the Dog Worshipping Festival; and the prime minister might change three times in one week.
But spare this city a few days and it will start to stitch itself into your affections. Whether it is the drama with which the snowy peaks of the ‘Himalayan necklace’ reappear after the monsoon rains; the sight of rows of Nepali cakes decorated with silver leaf; the Bollywood and Kollywood (Nepal’s film industry) poster-wallahs gliding silently in rickshaws late at night with long ladders, linen-backed posters and pots of glue; the mauve explosion of jacaranda trees in May; the enchantment of candle-lit shops in an old neighbourhood during a power cut; or the royal family with their giant sunglasses and mysterious Macbethesque massacre – the supernatural exudes from the Kathmandu Valley like the ubiquitous sandalwood incense.
Be warned, however: sometimes the magic can cause sensory overload and backfire. In Kathmandu, the British Embassy alone deals with at least one case a month involving a tourist who has contracted psychosis. Now that the political situation has hopefully turned a corner, a ceasefire has been brokered between Maoist rebels and whoever claims to be the Nepalese government that day. The arrogant and stubborn king has been demoted, government clerks spend their days manually erasing ‘His Majesty’s Government’ from letterheads, and there is an air of optimism once more.
If a country’s concern for its heritage is low down the list of priorities in times of political turbulence, a renewed interest in it can surely only be an encouraging sign – an indication that people are thinking long term once more.
With the proliferation of budget airlines in Asia and the opening of new attractions, Kathmandu is becoming a weekend destination for tourists from India and the rest of the region. Referred to by locals as ‘India lite’ – for its remarkably unfrenetic pace – the city and the surrounding valley contain enough to occupy visitors for a few days rather than just a couple of hours before catching a flight out.
Kathmandu is pervaded by a serene sense of permanence (which could be seen in a glass-half-empty way as lack of dynamism) rather than the frenzied pace of change that grips South-East Asia. This means the best places to hang out are those that have been tried and tested by locals – read on for a pick of the best.
Fire & Ice (219 Tridevi Marg, Thamel) is a Kathmandu institution. Its outstanding pizzas cause trekkers to salivate mid-mountain in memory, and the place is packed with anthropologists, Everesteers, Nepalese families and Tibetan monks (to whom cracked crockery must not be given as it invites bad karma). The Italian owner, Anna Maria, has the parmesan made in Lhasa.
Chez Caroline (in the Babar Mahal Revisited shopping complex – the former cow sheds of a Rana palace) is the chic French bistro where aid agencies and diplomats go to drown their sorrows after meetings with the Nepalese government next door. It serves up ginger ice tea, steak frites and Kathmandu’s best desserts; weekend brunches are excellent value. Browse the art gallery beyond for interesting exhibitions.
Brunch at Dhokaima, the sunny courtyard complex at Patan gate, is a great place to start or finish a walk around Patan, the town south of Kathmandu, over the Bagmati River. Buy one of their excellent walking tour booklets at the counter and check the noticeboard for upcoming cultural events.
The best momos (Tibetan dumplings) in Kathmandu are to be found near Chabbahil chowk, on the way east to Pashupatinath, at a small café called Momos and More (diagonally opposite Dwarika’s Hotel, Bhattisputali Street). There is also a branch in Sanepa, on the Patan side of town.
Café Mitra (off Tridevi Marg) is a charming restaurant in an old house in Thamel, where locals like to gather for roast duck and unforgettable chocolate soufflés. For early drinks and nightcaps, try the cosy bar at the top, presided over by the entertaining owner, Kunal.
On Patan’s Durbar Square there’s a very local rooftop joint called Krishna Mandir (after the temple it overlooks). Close your eyes as you enter through the kitchens, and perch on tiny stools upstairs while watching the square teem below. The tipple is chang (local rice and barley beer) poured from plastic jugs. Snacks include sukuti (dried venison and buffalo) – or buffalo tartare for the really brave.
The Fire Club in Thamel is also known as the Fight Club, for reasons that become clear as the night progresses. For those who like their fights royal, visit Galaxy, the nightclub at the Everest Hotel (3km from the airport), and be prepared to scarper when you hear the Crown Prince’s Harley arrive.
New Tibetan wool carpets are excellent value and come in very convenient sizes for transporting back home. Dondhup Khensar, opposite Fire and Ice, has a great selection of rugs in traditional designs; expect to pay about $120 per sq m.
A good place to browse Tibetan furniture, such as tiger-painted doors and wooden chests, is at Bodhnath. As you enter, visit the furniture shop on the left-hand side, just before the corner, and they will take you to their depot in an ex-bowling alley, crammed with treasures.
Kopondol, the road leading to Patan from the Bagmati Bridge, is lined with interesting NGO-supported craft shops. Dhukuti has an excellent selection of homewares and gifts, especially felt children’s toys on the top floor.
Kathmandu – pashmina capital of the world –is awash with cashmere, of variable quality. For designer knits, head to the Himalayan Cashmere Company on Lazimpat (north of the Royal Palace). The service is slow, but the wool is wonderful.
The staff at Maheshwari Tailors in Bishal Bazaar shopping mall know the girths of most of the town’s diplomats. It’s an excellent place for men’s shirts (£7) and suits (£70), with a good choice of Italian cashmere and Scottish tweeds.
Bookshops are surprisingly good in Kathmandu; locals like to browse in Pilgrims Book House in Thamel (ask if the knowledgeable Gandhi is there) for current and out-of-print books. Or try Mandala Book Point (on Kantipath, south of Thamel) for books on politics and philosophy.
Shivapuri National Park (to the north) is a good place to walk in a spare afternoon. Take a taxi to Budhanilkantha (and stop to see the floating Vishnu sculpture that no Nepali king is allowed to set eyes upon) and walk up towards the park. Once inside, stick to the track to your right (the army has mined off-track sites) and head for the nunnery, halfway up the hill – a great spot for picnics with amazing views over the city.
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