Desert reins

Karam senses the storm, rather than sees it; a chuckle of breeze, a buckle of noise, then silence, as if the desert is holding its breath and waiting to exhale. Around us the dunes change hue, borrowing their colours from the bruised sky. "Look," Karam says, raising one hand above his head, as green orbs of electricity pulse from his fingertips. "We must leave."

Following Karam's lead I hunker forward, grab a chunk of Darwish's chestnut mane and squeeze my calves against his sides. As an Arabian horse with four millennia of desert spirit coursing through his veins he needs little encouragement, breaking into a rollicking canter once we're down the slope and through the gap between the dunes. With sand shooting behind us we give our horses their head, their dragon-like puffs echoing across the dunes.

It is easy to see why the Bedouin called them, "Drinkers of the Wind".

The Arabian Desert called me with a tune that began when I was a girl. My first horse, a part-bred Arabian mare named Royal, set me on the path of a lifelong love affair. For a timid child, plagued by self-doubt, some of this beautiful creature's fiery spirit entered my soul, as if by osmosis, giving me courage and whispering of an exotic world far away from Sydney's fibro-clad western suburbs.

Today, I've journeyed to the Middle East, not simply to trace the history of the Arabian horse, but to use this most revered animal as a portal to better connect with its people. I've started at Qasr Al Sarab, a mirage-come-true resort of turrets and towers smack in the middle of the Liwa Desert, inside the Empty Quarter, a 90-minute drive from Abu Dhabi airport.

The resort's location is by choice, not chance. Apart from the eye-popping views, it was in the Liwa Desert that the Bedouin ancestors of the current rulers of Abu Dhabi once lived. Managed by Anantara, a company known for its sensitivity to indigenous culture, Qasr Al Sarab aims to keep the desert heritage alive by offering camel treks, desert walks, archery and falconry, as well as the opportunity to traverse a portion of the Liwa Desert on horseback.

After the storm we return to the stables enjoying nature's artwork. What was once an ancient forest floor is now an endless swell of tidal waves, each orange peak seeming more monstrous than the last.

In Abu Dhabi I have a meeting with Ahmed Ali Al Hammadi, director and visionary of the Equestrian Centre at the Al Forsan International Sports Resort. Immaculately dressed in a pure white kandura, Ahmed shows me around the gleaming stables, on-site veterinary hospital, indoor training arena with its powder-soft silica sand and outdoor arenas enclosed with state-of-the-art safety fences. "Horses are our family," says Ahmed. "Our ancestors brought their horses into their tents for safekeeping; today we have airconditioning and closed-circuit television." Over strong coffee and dates we talk about the close connection Arabs have with their horses.

"Allah created the horse from the south wind," Ahmed says. "When God created the horse he said: 'I have made thee as no other. All the treasures of the earth lie between thy eyes. Thy shall carry my friends upon thy back. Thy saddle shall be the seat of prayers to me and thou shall fly without wings.'"

He doesn't just speak these words, he breathes them, blowing the syllables around the room like the wind itself, causing the hairs on my neck to stand up. As I shiver, Ahmed pulls the sleeve of his robe back showing me the raised hairs on his own arm.

Strangers united, our separate worlds overlap for a moment.

A friend of a friend suggests I fly to Sir Bani Yas Island, a 20-minute flight from Abu Dhabi. Originally home to the Bani Yas tribe, the island was the personal retreat of the late ruler and founder of the UAE, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. As part of the sheikh's plan to provide a habitat for Arabia's endangered species he turned half of the island into a wildlife reserve. Today the island is stocked with more than 10,000 animals, including the endangered Arabian oryx, Arabian cheetah, mountain and sand gazelles and more than 170 species of birds.

Anantara operates the only accommodation on the island, the Desert Islands Resort and Spa and the newly opened Al Yamm Villas (inside the wildlife park itself), offering horse riding to their guests through their Sir Bani Yas Stables. The stables opened in March 2012 and are home to about a dozen horses, most originating from the UAE. "Perfumed posers the lot of them," says my guide Lauren MacLucas with a grin, as we set off on the Royal Bay ride.

Lauren's mount Ronan, a pure-bred Arabian originally from the Royal stables, is showing off; neck arched, tail high, prancing like a show pony, while I'm on Bogus, a calm and intelligent ex-polo pony. Riders are matched with horses depending on ability; for beginners there are lessons in the arena or short rides on leads, while intermediates and advanced can choose between the Royal Bay ride, a sunset ride or a ride amid the wildlife park.

We set off at a gentle pace, spotting gazelles, riding through herds of deer, looking for flamingos, but it is the beach that calls like a siren. Once Bogus reaches the sand I feel him lift and lighten, seeming to uncurl his wings and float above the ground. In response, I gather the reins and establish a soft contact with his mouth, squeeze my calves and we are away, flying along the beach, sand swirling like streamers in our wake.

Arabian horses were selectively bred for speed: short strong backs, powerful hindquarters, large efficient nostrils. "Even their hearts beat twice as fast as other horses," MacLucas says. "In fact, all of today's thoroughbred race horses can trace their ancestry back to one of three original Arabians - the Godolphin Arabian, the Byerley Turk and the Darley Arabian."

Back on the mainland I drive to Meydan racecourse for the annual Dubai World Cup, the richest horse race in the world, worth $US10 million - and perhaps the greatest show on earth. General admission is only 25 Emirati dirham ($7.60), making the event accessible to many, though there are still plenty of private boxes and high fashion. Betting is off, but the bubbles flow freely (in designated areas). Everyone receives one free Pick 6 game card (don't lose it), so there's a slim chance of a cash prize.

Unlike racing in the West it's not all about the gambling or the drinking; it's the sheer thrill of watching horses run.

"The equine tradition of the people of the UAE is well documented," says racing fanatic and Dubai ruler His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, in his opening address. "Inside Meydan's grandstand exists the beating heart of our culture."

Surrounded by a sea of men in flowing white robes, I cheer Animal Kingdom to victory.

It is American-bred and trained, but 75 per cent Australian-owned, so it is the Australian national anthem that booms over the loudspeakers. Swept up in the embrace of strangers, I've found the connection I was searching for.

GETTING THERE

Etihad Airways flies to Abu Dhabi from Sydney and Melbourne, priced from $1909 return, see etihadairways.com. Emirates flies to Dubai from Sydney and Melbourne from $1799 return, see emirates.com. It is a 90-minute drive between the two cities.

Sir Bani Yas Island - from Abu Dhabi, Rotana Executive Jets fly to the island from Al Bateen Executive Airport on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Or drive to Jebel Dhana Jetty (250 kilometres from Abu Dhabi) and take the guests' free water taxi.

STAYING THERE

Desert Islands Resort and Spa by Anantara is a comfortable beachfront resort with kids' club, water sports facility and a full program of nature and wildlife drives. Prices start from $253 a room a night including breakfast. Phone +971 2 801 5400, see desertislands.anantara.com. Qasr Al Sarab by Anantara is a five-star resort on a shifting sand dune in the middle of the Liwa Desert. Prices start from $253 a room a night for a Deluxe Garden room including breakfast. Phone +971 2 886 2088, see qasralsarab.anantara.com.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

visitabudhabi.ae; dubaitourism.ae.