Enjoy a Traditional North Thailand Khantoke Dinner
Chiangmai, Thailand
For an excellent Thai dinning experience, a traditional Lanna Khantoke dinner is a must. Many believe this north Thailand dinner with music and dance was invented for tourists, but the Khantoke dinner dates back many centuries. Locals celebrate festivals and holidays in their homes with the Khantoke dinner today.
Join in the Dancing After Dinner Using the fingers of the right hand, a small portion of sticky rice that is served in little woven bamboo baskets is kneaded into a bite-sized ball (it takes a little practice!) and the ball is dipped into the desired main dish (a portion can be melded onto the rice ball) before being popped into the mouth. The fingers shouldn’t really enter one’s mouth (the food shouldn’t be crammed) as the movements are politely delicate. A rinse of the fingers and the process is repeated again and again. Thais from the humblest to the highest continue to dine in this traditional manner when the cultural or home occasion arises, and they are adept at making it look easy and gracious.
Start with the fried pumpkin as hors d’oeuvres and then alternate as you like between the mildly spicy red chili, tomato and minced pork dip, the succulent fried chicken, and a mouth-watering Burmese pork curry that is so gentle, so soft that you will gladly accept a second helping.
The chili dip is called Nam Prik Awng and is teased from its bowl with pieces of deep-fried crispy pork skin or freshly sliced cucumber, whichever you prefer. The chicken and Hangleh, as the pork curry is called, go well with the stir-fried cabbage and either the sticky or plain cooked rice. The Khantoke also contains a bowl of crispy fried noodles to complement the rice. Dessert, served separately, consists of fried rice crispies and, if you dare to break the spell of tradition, either coffee or tea.
About halfway through your meal, a classical orchestra will begin to accompany troupes of dancers in gorgeous costumes, or occasionally a solo dancer, as they perform the graceful movements of Thai classical dance for your pleasure. These are absolutely authentic Northern Thailand dances, quite distinct from those performed in Bangkok and Ayutthaya. They are rooted in the region’s history, literature, and way of life.
While some like the Fingernail Dance, which is usually performed only on special occasions such as a state visit, are slow, stately, and exquisitely graceful; others, such as the solo Sword Dance, have a flashing, ferocious beauty. Performances such as the Magic Fowls Dance, meanwhile, are taken from local folklore and literature while a fourth genre that includes the Silk Reeling Dance depicts various aspects of daily village life.
In some cases, the dances were originally either choreographed or polished by northern court poets and dance instructors to celebrate a particular event such as the royal visits of King Prajadhipok and King Rama the Seventh to Chiang Mai in 1927. In others, members of the old Chiang Mai royal family were themselves the inspiration.
The Shan and Burmese courts are represented in other dances such as the Mahn Mui Chiangta Dance, while the Thai Lue Dance is originally performed by the Thai Lue people of Nong Bua village in Nan Province. The final dance is the Ramwong, or Circle Dance. This is a typical Thai folk dance that was popularised some 60 or 70 years ago. After a few introductory rounds so that you, the guests, can see how it is done, the dancers will invite you to join in on a cheerful, friendly finale to evening’s program.
The total time takes about two hours to eat and enjoy the music and entertainment. This is a dinner you must do at least once while visiting Chiangmai. Many Thai people from Bangkok and other parts of Thailand always visit a Khantoke Dinner restaurant when in Chiangmai.
