Relive golden eras at fresco-filled Byzantine churches and opulent Ottoman palaces on your Istanbul city break. In Sultanahmet, Istanbul’s old town, golden mosaics with biblical scenes adorn the domes of the magnificent Hagia Sophia – built as a Byzantine church, converted into an Ottoman-era mosque and now a secular space. Emperors held chariot races around the nearby Hippodrome, today dotted with immense carved white pillars. Over the Golden Horn waterway, views from the top of 14th-century Galata Tower take in pencil-like minarets from a myriad of Ottoman mosques. For a taste of today’s Turkey, the Istanbul Modern art gallery in Karaköy showcases the nation’s finest painters.
In Istanbul, old shopping habits die hard. Find the freshest pistachios from the L-shaped stone Egyptian Bazaar in Eminönü, where traders have been selling aromatic spices for centuries. Serious carpet shoppers should head to the vast central Grand Bazaar where stallholders drive a hard bargain on woven rugs or the best silk Hariki carpets. Unearth cut-price clothing treasures at ramshackle Iş Merkezi mall in Beyoğlu, or follow local fashionistas to Nişantaşi for home-grown designer gear. Hidden-alleyways selling local trinkets dot the vast pedestrianised Istiklal Caddesi.
Istanbullus love to eat out. Squeeze your way down Beyoğlu’s busy Nevizade Sokak street for a noisy beer and fish meal. Turkish dinner kicks off with assorted mezes for everyone to share. Smoky aubergine dips, hot pepper pâté and deep-fried cheese pastries give you a taste of traditional Turkey. For informal, daytime dining, try fresh fish in bread from boats at Eminönü harbour, or a tasty gözleme (stuffed pancake). After a meal, find tucked-away bars in Tünel for a cold Efes beer, or sip cocktails on a stylish rooftop bar overlooking the Bosphorus before heading back to your Istanbul hotel.