Caves, waterfalls, lava fields, mountains, black-sand beaches and more!
Snæfellsnes in western Iceland is one of the most diverse areas in the country. It will show you black and yellow beaches, cliffs, waterfalls, caves, mountains, lava fields and much more - and all of this is watched over by the magnificent Snæfellsjökull glacier.
It’s debatable whether the glacier is the entry to the Center of the Earth (as Jules Verne seemed to think), the meeting point of aliens or a mysterious and powerful energy center, but I can tell you for sure that it’s absolutely gorgeous. Snæfellsnes is conveniently located within day-tour-distance from Reykjavík, so don’t miss it while you’re in Iceland. You have the choice of taking a guided tour or renting a car and driving yourself, but since you're reading a self-drive article, I'll assume it's the latter.
Here are some of the major attractions in Snæfellsnes - there are too many to cover all of these in one day, but you can either pick and choose which ones to see, or you could even spend the night out there and do all of them. You won’t be bored if you do - there’s a lot to see!
10 things to see, to be exact.
1. Eldborg
This picturesque, symmetrical crater stands alone in the middle of a lava field on the way to Snæfellsnes. The last eruption there was about 5000-6000 years ago.
From Reykjavík, head north out of the city on route 1. Go through the Hvalfjarðargöng tunnel (costs about 1000 ISK), and over the bridge into Borgarnes. Here you turn west on route 54 and drive about 25 minutes until you get to Snorrastaðir. This is a farm where you can go horse riding, and also where you start your walk to Eldborg.
Then it's a short walk (half an hour each way) through the lava field and to the top Eldborg, where you can look into the crater and enjoy the view of the surroundings.
2. Gerðuberg
Gerðuberg is a massive sheer cliff wall of basalt columns. Easily spotted from the road, this natural phenomenon looks almost man-made. It’s a lovely place with great views, perfect to stretch your legs after the drive from Reykjavík.
How to get there: It's just a little further up route 54 from Eldborg. You'll see it, but also there's a sign just in case.
Gerðuberg's magnificent basalt columns are visible from the main road.
Photo Credit: Kim&Amy
3. Lýsuhólslaug
The water in this charming old swimming pool is completely natural, straight from the ground. No chemicals are added to the water and it’s rich with minerals, so it attracts algae. It’s really good for your skin, so don’t worry about the green shade of the water. That’s what it’s supposed to look like!
How to get there: Drive another 30 minutes on route 54 after Gerðuberg.
4. Rauðfeldargjá (Red-Fur Canyon)
The name of this ravine is originally from an Icelandic saga, Bárðar saga Snæfellsás, that took place in this area. Bárður’s nephews Rauðfeldur(Red-fur) and Sölvi had pushed Bárður’s daughter out to sea on an iceberg. He thought his daughter was lost, but what he didn’t know was that she had drifted all the way to Greenland, where she was safe.
Enraged, he shoved the furry Rauðfeldur into this ravine, and threw Sölvi off a cliff. Both places now carry the names of those boys.
Rauðfeldsgjá feels like the mountain has been cut in two and you’re walking between the pieces. The ravine is very narrow and there’s a stream that runs through it, with a lovely waterfall hidden deep inside the mountain.
How to get there: From Lýsuhólslaug, it's about 15-20 minutes along route 54, and a right-hand turn on Útnesvegur, (route 574). There is a road sign right before you get to Arnarstapi where you can turn off, park and walk to Rauðafeldsgjá.
5. Arnarstapi
Arnarstapi is a charming little fishing village located right below the Snæfellsjökull Glacier. By the harbour there are some amazing rock formations where various species of birds nest in the summer. From there it’s a short walk to a massive sculpture of the half-troll Bárður Snæfellsás, by Ragnar Kjartansson.
You’ll be walking through the nesting grounds of the Arctic Tern though, so beware! They are tiny, but fierce and will do anything to protect their young, like pecking you (hard!) in the head. So it wouldn’t hurt to bring a stick and raise it above your heads, since the terns always attack the highest point. I never worry about it though, because I’m usually too busy admiring their strength, beauty and flying skills.
From Arnarstapi there’s a nice and easy 2,5 km hike by the seaside to Hellnar, the next village. When you get there you can explore the cave Baðstofa (e. "living room") by the sea, and regain your strength at the cosy café Fjöruborðið.
How to get there: Continue west on route 574, there will be a left hand turn and a road sign pointing to Arnarstapi.
Mt. Stapafell, by Arnarstapi is an impressive sight surrounded by cool rock formations.
6. Vatnshellir
This is one of the coolest lava caves in Iceland. It’s in the National Park of Snæfellsnes so for preservation purposes you need to go there with a guided tour (for information about this, just email these guys). The tours take about 45 minutes and go down 35 meters (115 ft.) into the ground. You get to see some amazing colours and formations in the lava rock.
The cave is about 200 meters (650 ft.) long, and when you get to the end, the guide will often turn off the lights and ask everyone to be quiet. When I did this tour, I think it was honestly the first time in my life that I experienced real, absolute darkness and silence. That’s truly a unique opportunity when noise and light is such a big part of our everyday lives.
Stykkishólmur is a perfectly picturesque little fishing village in Snæfellsnes
