San Sebastian 2016: Why this European City of Culture is (Always) Worth Visiting

We’ve been tracking San Sebastian’s rise to the culinary hall of fame since we first lived in the Basque Country over 15 years ago. Now as Europe’s City of Culture in 2016, its cultural calendar has finally caught up with the chefs and it really is a world class destination for all the senses.

When San Sebastian was awarded the title of European City of Culture at first we were somewhat surprised. This small city’s infrastructure is already unable to cope with the huge demand from all the foodies descending on the small pintxos bars in the extremely picturesque old quarter. And the International Film Festival really puts the town to the test as well. But when we see what the city has done in preparation for 2016, it all makes sense.

One of Spain’s prettiest cities in the North – San Sebastian – is Europe’s City of Culture for 2016.

You only need to look at the HQ for the City of Culture, Bomberos, to see what’s happening. The old fire station has been transformed into a stunning cultural space. And Tabakalera – the old tobacco plant – has also been refitted to become a new arts centre. The city is using this year to engage with itself and its residents. But those of us living outside the city boundary are more than welcome to come, explore and enjoy.

The San Sebastian 2016 Celebrations

It all kicks off with the drumming. Drums are a central part of San Sebastian’s identity (as you can see in the video above). The tamborrada or drumming that traditionally marks the Day of San Sebastian on January 20th is bigger than ever. When all that amazing noise settles, much of the year is about shining the spotlight on elements of the city’s culture that are less well-known. For example, the San Telmo Museum is celebrating the Gaur Group and the Barandiaran Gallery that included top names such as Eduardo Chillida and holding a major exhibition celebrating the experimental space that operated in the 1960s.

Situated at the base of the Igueldo mountain, the Windcomb by Eduardo Chillida is the icon of the city and has been visited daily by locals and tourists contemplating the sound and the power of the sea. The contribution of this sculptor to the city will be part of San Telmo Museum’s 2016 cultural programme. Pic credit: San Sebastian Turismo

San Sebastian wouldn’t be San Sebastian if it didn’t have a foodie element and #TimeMachineSoup is inspired in the 80 grandmothers that stand between us and our life in the caves. This combination of European history and gastronomy, involves the tasting of 12 different soups (from today’s more industrial efforts back to the broths of our ancestors) while observing aspects of literature, history and the visual arts that have made us what we are today.

Sound is also getting its time in the limelight and will be used to reflect on the city’s history. Perfect for a city stroll, users can download an app with an audio guide to rediscover the city based on its residents memories and can follow established trails or improvise their own route.

One of the lively streets inside the Parte Vieja or old quarter in San Sebastian. In 2016, you can enjoy these streets while listening to voices and sounds from days gone by thanks to a new App. Pic credit: San Sebastian Turismo

It’s not about looking back. #DSS2016 is also about exploring the way artists create today. Seven museums will be throwing their doors open to artists so residents and visitors can see the creative process in action. And the strand of the programme that’s examining peace is being taken on tour too. A bus is driving around Europe to spread the message. Keep an eye out for it wherever you are.

This year is about making a lasting impact rather than partying hard for 12 months. Here you can see the Bakea Paz programme encharged with taking the message of culture and peace outside the Basque Country. Pic credit: Bakea Paz

Minority languages are getting some programming time too in Donostia – which if you didn’t already know is the Basque word for San Sebastian. (That explain the D in #DSS2016)

Check out the full programme for all the events where you’ll find comics, puppetry, video-games alongside the refugee crisis, human rights and peace treaties. Plus mountaineering, dance, culinary exchanges, digital libraries, urban planning, cycling, falling in love and Shakespeare, jazz and lots more.

The San Sebastian We Already Know and Love

If you’ve already been to San Sebastian, you know it boasts a heady cocktail of elegant belle epoque architecture, beautiful beaches in the city, the star studded international film festival and of course, all those Michelin-stars and amazing bars and restaurants in the old quarter serving the world-famous Basque cuisine –in miniature pintxo form and in regular too.

Even the most humble of bars stretches to a fine array of tapas called pintxos in San Sebastian. Pic credit: San Sebastian Turismo

If you haven’t already been to San Sebastian, here’s a few tips and pitfalls to be aware of to get the best out of this Basque gem…

1. Do visit the pintxos bars that are listed in the guide books and order what you see the others eating around you. BTW Only go into the bars if they are busy – if they are empty chances are you haven’t worked out the Spanish timetable – check that out in our blogpost here.
2. Enjoy the drama of the location as well as the food. These bars are like stages where the pintxos are the players and the kitchen and bar staff are directors and producers. Embrace the atmosphere (and the flavours!)
3. If you feel like you aren’t in the right place (and you have paid attention to the Spanish timetables) ask about the places doing the Pinchopote deals which is the equivalent of San Sebastian’s happy hour. As you’d expect, it involves pintxos. Deals range from as little as 1.50 to 3 EUR for a tapa plus drink. And while we are talking about ‘potes’ you should also check out music and food event called Gastropote which is located in the San Martin marketplace. Don’t forget to make use of your hotel concierge who can tailor recommendations to your group size and location. Wherever you fetch up, bear in mind that many of the pintxo bars are small places where standing is the norm.
4. Unless you can rustle up a local to take you around, we do recommend joining a food tour of some sort – whether that’s a cooking class, a walking tapas tour or some other event. It’s the best way to engage with people who work in this industry and see it from the inside. It’s worth setting this up for your first day so you can benefit from all the know-how while you are there.
5. Remember it’s not all about tapas – although they do look so pretty and taste so good. You won’t get to taste all the best of Basque if you limit yourself to its small dishes. Book at table at one of the nice restaurants and order something seafood – preferably with an ‘x’ in it such as a platter of squid (txipiron) or hake cheek (kokotxas) – you’ll thank us for it!

It’s great fun to have pintxos but you need to try a few sit-down meals too!

Planning Your Trip to San Sebastian

Book your accommodation early. Don’t expect to find affordable central hotels here last minute because you won’t. Even with our many great contacts in all the best hotels, we still have a tough time with availability at the last minute for the high season.  So if you are considering a trip to San Sebastian, book it today or better still get onto us at Totally Spain to book it! You’ll be glad you did.

Make sure to take in some of the amazing city walks. Walk up to the castle at the top of Monte Urgull which is a half-hour walk through woodland and there’s an English cemetery to explore halfway up. And walk or take a ride up Monte Igueldo, at the other end of the bay, on the old funicular railway. The views of the city and its curving waterline are breathtakingly beautiful day or night. You’ll run out of adjectives  – we promise you!

La Concha beach in San Sebastian is mesmerising.

As we’ve already said, San Sebastian is about a lot more than food. You’ve already dabbled in the culture and the views – but we also encourage you to explore the city’s architecture. There’s something for everybody from the newly refurbished Tabacalera and Bomberos buildings and check out Moneo’s Kursaal building. If you’re more into fancy but aren’t staying at the Maria Cristina hotel – pop over for a drink and read about the history of the building, its royal connections and its fate during the Civil War. If you like your lines clean, you’ll enjoy the Rationalist Club Nautico. Fans of urban planning will get a kick out of the excellent promenade and the lovely squares such as Plaza de la Constitucion (Konstituzio) where you can sit back and relax – unless you are there on the 20 January – when you will probably be fighting for standing room and taking in the sight that is the tamborrada – the drumming!

2016 kicks off with a bang – as San Sebastian’s tamborrada announces the start of Europe’s City of Culture programme. Pic credit: San Sebastian Turismo

Tempted to arrange an Insider Tour of San Sebastian and the Basque Country?

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