Cantabria has a reputation for rainy weather among the Spaniards – although it’s well into November and it’s still nice enough for ice-cream cones on the beach! But we won’t deny that it rains more than in Andalusia so if you do hit a wet day, here are some of the amazing museums to choose from in the capital and outside…
Santander’s Palacete del Embarcadero is a tiny exhibition space but it’s location makes it well worth a visit. The building dates from 1920 and the architect responsible is Javier Riancho who designed the city’s Magdalena Palace with Gonzalo Bringas. It is owned by the Port Authority and is used as an exhibition space today but its original purpose was as passenger terminal. As you’d expect, the exhibitions have a maritime theme. If you happen to find yourself on the sea front and a chilly wind picks up or a layer of fog lands, you should certainly pop into this wonderful Brighton-esque folly and see what’s showing.
The Embarcadero Palace is right on the bay beside Pereda Gardens in Santander. Pic credit: PamelaCahill.com
Another niche gallery space in wonderful surroundings in Santander is the Lighthouse Art Centre. If the weather is nice and you fancy a walk, take the pathway from the Sardinero beach along the cliffside up towards the lighthouse. (If the weather isn’t behaving then drive up or take a cab.) There’s a pleasant café beside the lighthouse and a lovely walk along the headland behind the café if the weather is good. And of course, the exhibition space – which is a wonderful bright and cheery place. You’ll find a collection of paintings and sketches of the lighthouse by the painter Eduardo Sanz (1928-2013) and others who took brush to paper to portray scenes and themes influenced by lighthouses.
Looking through the Lighthouse Museum Space onto the bay… Pic credit: PamelaCahill.com
Beside the newly pedestrianised Calle Rubio street in Santander that is bustling with cafes, bars and foodie shops, you’ll find the city’s Modern Art Museum (MAS). Housed in a beautiful space that dates back to 1919, you’ll find an elegant and well-curated space with some classics and modern works also. Keep an eye out for the Goyas and local artists such as Agustin de Riancho (1841-1929).
Follow the pedestrianised street behind the town hall to get to the Modern Art Museum in Santander. Pic credit: PamelaCahill.com
If it’s really bucketing down or you’re in Santander with a few children who need entertaining, you have to take them to the Maritime Museum. It’s near the brand new Gamazo promontory and playgrounds on the seafront so if the weather clears there’s lots nearby to see and do. The highlight at the Museum is the feeding of the fish in the aquarium so don’t miss that at midday. But you’ll find there’s lots to entertain including the many intricate models and maps and the 40m long skeleton of the blue whale. You’ll find lots of other water creatures and body parts in jam-jars too. If it’s a bright day outside, don’t miss the roof terrace (beside the café and restaurant) where you have a wonderful view of the Bay of Santander. Perfect for some family snaps. The museum hosts school tours, birthday parties, workshops for kids and occasional sleepovers beside the aquarium so you’ll find the staff here are well-used to the little ones.
The enormous blue whale skeleton at the Maritime Museum in Santander. Pic credit: TurismodeCantabria.com
Completely renovated in 2013, Santander’s Pre-History Museum (MUPAC) is another great rainy day visit. It’s modern and interactive displays can be found in the subterranean museum space on Calle Bailen beside the Mercado del Este marketplace. You’ll find artifacts from the region’s caves and other sites of archaeological importance in this collection that was first exhibited in the city 90 years ago. It’s another one that’s popular with children so perfect for a drizzly morning when you can’t go to the beach.
The Prehistory Museum in Santander is just behind the Mercado del Este restored marketplace. Pic credit: TurismodeCantabria.com
Also in Santander, you’ll find the Botin Foundation which is Banco Santander’s privately run arts and cultural foundation. While we await the opening of the brand new Renzo Piano designed Centro Botin, we can still pop into some of the foundation’s exhibition spaces in the city. It’s most central space (which actually backs onto the Pre-history Museum) is just under the arches of the Banco Santander building on Paseo de Pereda. You’ll find world-class exhibitions here – right now you can catch the Sol Lewitt show which runs until 10 January 2016.
While we wait for the Botin Centre to be finished, the exhibitions at the Foundation space under the Banco de Santander arches are great… Pic credit: PamelaCahill.com
Altamira, El Soplao and all the other amazing caves in Cantabria are perfect for those grey rainy days when you don’t want to be outside. Check out our guide to Cantabria’s caves for details of each of the caves and suggested touring routes. We particularly love the original cave art at El Castillo near Puente Viesgo (pictured below) but probably recommend the larger Altamira & El Soplao for those rainy days especially if you are travelling with children or a family group and you need more facilities such as a restaurant and café and a large interpretation centre.
Inside El Castillo cave near Puente Viesgo – just one of the many amazing caves to visit in Cantabria. Pic credit: TurismodeCantabria.com
In Potes? You’ll have heard about the “micro-climate” which means that the weather is nearly always pleasant here. But if you happen to hit one of the few wet days, we recommend the Picos de Europa Visitor Centre at Tama near Potes. You’ll find lots of displays on the flora and fauna plus plenty of background on those who have lived and worked in the national park. It’s an airy space with lots of atmosphere and interactive displays which makes it perfect for all ages. There are many other interpretative centres throughout the region – we like some of the more unusual or niche interpretative museums such as the Wet Nurses (Museo de Amas de Cria) museum in Valvanuz and the Wafer Museum (Barquillero) in Santillana.
The Picos De Europa Centre near Potes is a wonderful modern interpretation centre. Pic credit: TurismodeCantabria.com
If you’re looking to visit a private house of considerable means you’ll find quite a few in Cantabria including the exquisite Sobrellano Palace in Comillas, the elegant House Museum of the Marquis of Valdecilla in Valdecilla and the baroque Sonanes Palace in Villacarriedo, which is now a hotel with a lovely restaurant. But if we have to pick one residence in Cantabria, that would be El Capricho de Gaudi in Comillas. Designed as a summer residence by none other than Gaudi in 1883 for Máximo Díaz de Quijano, this really is a unique place in Cantabria and one which is rewarding for those who know Gaudi’s other work as well as those who don’t. It was one of his early buildings and it’s hard to resist the charms especially when you learn how personalised this building is to the owner’s interests. If the day is nice, you can enjoy the gardens and even hit the beach in Comillas – but if it’s a wet one, seek refuge inside which you can explore yourself or as part of a guided tour.
The one and only El Capricho by Gaudi in Comillas – not to be missed – whatever the weather! Pic credit: ElCaprichoDeGaudi.com
We hope we’ve given you a few pointers for some of the best indoor activities for Cantabria. We also recommend doing what the locals do when the weather misbehaves – take a daytrip but factor in an extra long lunch, take out the brolly for a bit of early evening shopping and pick somewhere nice for a late afternoon sweet snack or an early wine with tapas.
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