The New Bilbao

I´m often amazed at how many people (and guidebooks) still believe Bilbao city to be an industrial eyesore hardly worth spending a night in. Nothing could be further from the truth.

This year the Guggenheim Museum located along the Bilbao River in the heart of the city centre celebrates it´s 10th anniversary. A lot of controversy surrounded the building of this costly titanium masterpiece with many locals objecting to its construction. They did not get the futuristic design of architect Frank Gehry and who could blame them. On paper it looked weird but the finished structure is simply spectacular and it has won the heart of every Bilbaino.

Like a sown seed that takes root and begins to blossom, the Guggenheim was the seed that spawned the complete regeneration of the Bilbao River and the entire docks area that surrounds the museum. It´s remarkable what has been done. Even the fish have returned to the river. Where once there was cranes, chains, grime and grease there is now a pleasant walkway with palm trees. There is a very stylish shopping centre with bars and restaurants, a hip Sheraton hotel, a superb conference and concert venue called the Euskalduna and an eyecatching bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava (Zubi-Zuri bridge) connecting both sides of the river. The new city tram runs by the river too with green grass rather than gravel between the lines. It´s really lovely.

Bilbao has attracted some terrific new hotels too, the aforementioned Sheraton being just one of them. The Gran Hotel Domine is another gem of a hotel designed by Javier Mariscal. It is situated in front of the Guggenheim Museum and is certainly one of the most desirable 5 star hotels to stay in the city. The rooftop terrace is a great spot to enjoy a beer or to dine (if you can get a reservation) while enjoying views of the Guggenheim. I also like the newly opened Hotel Hesperia Bilbao. It´s just across the river from the museum and the perfect location to discover both the old and new parts of Bilbao. If you feel like splashing out they have several riverview rooms with a terrace overlooking tree-lined Campo Volantin that leads down to the Old Quarter.

The Old Quarter of Bilbao is extremely pleasant to stroll in. There are lovely independent shops, great bars and wonderful cafes such as Victor Montes in the plaza to tempt one. Everywhere feels safe, clean and well looked after. It´s easy to find an attractive corner that will draw you in to sit for awhile, enjoy a drink and watch the world go by.

Later you might cross over the river and continue down the Gran Via where some of the bigger stores in Bilbao can be found. The architecture in this area is impressive too.

Bilbao is an ideal city to walk in. It´s easy to get from place to place on foot although there is a tram and an award winning metro – Norman Foster design – should one feel tired. For relaxation, you can´t beat the Doña Casilida park full of trees and flowers and fountains. The Museum of Fine Arts is here too – a good spot for a coffee.

Dining in Bilbao is wonderful, as it is throughout the Basque Country. The local bar tapas known as pinchos are mouthwatering and immense in their variety. Excellent restaurants abound in the city but one especially worth trying is Zortziko. Their tasting menu, which costs around 75 euros, is to die for.

Bilbao is now definitely one of the top Spanish cities to visit and is worth doing so all year round.

about hotels and travel to Bilbao and the Basque Country.