First 24 hours: Edinburgh, Scotland

Its summers are packed with festivals, but there are plenty of reasons to head to Edinburgh once the curtains fall says Clare Wilson

Where? Scotland
Why? There’s something for every taste
When? Year-round for city breaks; June-Aug to experience all the festivals

Before you arrive

Scotland’s capital (and the surrounding Lothians region) is drenched with bloody, epic history and international landmarks. The city has volcanic origins (did you know Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano?) but nowadays the most explosive presence in the city are the world-famous summer festivals.

Plan in advance, and book as far ahead as possible if you want to take in Edinburgh’s festival season. This is especially true of accommodation – as you might have to stay outside the city and head in for show-time.

At the airport

All flights land at Edinburgh Airport, 12km west of the city centre. European Union (EU), British and Swiss nationals don’t need visas. Once you’re through baggage reclaim and into Arrivals, there are two bureau de change (Travelex and ICE) or ATMs at both the international and domestic ends of the terminal.

Getting into town

The airport is well connected with the city centre – the terminal’s information points provide airport bus information and an interactive journey planner. The Airlink 100 express and N22 night buses (adult open return £6, www.flybybus.com) take around 30 mins to get to Waverley Bridge by Edinburgh’s main train station. The Lothian Buses’ #35 also runs into the city centre (£1.50) but calls at stops en route, and continues to Leith.

Taxis can be found outside the east (UK Arrivals) end of the airport terminal. You can book private hire airport taxis – run by Edinburgh City Private Hire – in advance by calling 0131 477 4000. Car hire companies also operate from the airport.

Other ways to arrive

Edinburgh is well connected to the rest of Scotland and England by train. The Caledonian Sleeper train connects London with Edinburgh (and other Scottish cities) every night except Saturday, leaving Euston station around 11.30pm and arriving in Edinburgh the following morning around 7.20am. Trains are run by ScotRail and you can book online now for services up to 12 weeks in advance or from many staffed train stations nationwide. A small number of ‘Bargain Berths’ are available for £19 (one way) – a standard advance single between London and Edinburgh costs from around £60.

If you’d rather drive, the journey takes about 5.5hrs from Birmingham, 4hrs from Manchester and York, and 2.5hrs from Newcastle. If you’re coming from the north, the city is around 3hrs from Inverness and about 2hrs from Aberdeen. Driving up from the south, get off the motorways to drive along the Borders Historic Route. This passes through the beautiful (and much fought-over) Borders country, which nowadays is peppered with royal market towns. Stirling lies westwards or you could cross the mighty Forth bridges to head north, and take the Fife Coastal Route towards St Andrews for a quick tee off.

Top tip:

If you’re in town for the festival’s closing fireworks and can’t get a ticket, don’t stress: there are a number of good (if busy) viewing spots on Calton Hill, North Bridge and Princes Street, among others.

Edinburgh orientation

Enjoy the castle, Royal Mile and a nip of the good stuff...

First day’s tour

Start the day exploring Edinburgh Castle. The mighty fortification was once the residence of Scotland’s kings and queens. Inside you’ll find the Crown Room where the Scottish Crown Jewels are kept, and the Stone of Destiny, upon which previous Scottish monarchs were crowned.

Stroll down to the other end of the Royal Mile to see the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s official residence in Scotland. At one o’clock, aim to be either at Edinburgh Castle for the daily gun salute or at the top of Calton Hill (take the short route just off Princes Street) at Nelson’s Monument – a ball at the top of this drops simultaneously with the firing of the salute; an old navigation aid for sailors.

Spend the afternoon learning about the whisky making process at the Scotch Whisky Experience (close to Edinburgh Castle) but if whisky isn’t your tipple, try the unusual ‘liquid deli’ Demijohn, which holds a range of liqueurs, spirits, oils and vinegars produced by small cottage industries around the UK.

For a bit more traditional culture, give hand-weaving tartan a try over the road at the Tartan Weaving Mill and Exhibition, or you could have a poke into some of the city’s museums. The Writers’ Museum (housed in the historic Lady Stair’s House) celebrates the lives of three of Scotland’s great writers – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. Or the blockbuster (free) National Museum of Scotland holds over 20,000 exhibits spread across 36 galleries.

First night’s sleep

Top end: The Scotsman is a 5* luxury boutique hotel housed in the former Scotsman Newspaper building. It’s just off the Royal Mile, with views of the castle, the Firth of Forth, Leith, Princes Street and Calton Hill. No two rooms are alike, but they’re all gorgeous and discounts are available for booking in advance; doubles from £190.

Mid range: Adria House is well established, centrally situated in the elegant Georgian New Town – the Playhouse Theatre is just around the corner – as is Calton Hill if you want to take in the city skyline. Doubles from £100, a hearty breakfast is included and New Town has plenty of classy restaurants, friendly bistros and contemporary cafe-bars nearby for lunch and dinner.

Budget: Tantallon Place B&B has just two bright and sunny (en-suite) rooms, and they make their own jams, marmalade and bread for breakfast. Rates are a bargain from £40.

Stay or go?

Edinburgh’s great for a long weekend, so stay for a couple of days, but it’s worth exploring the outskirts of the city and the surrounding countryside. Get the train to the village of South Queensferry for a view of the two Forth Bridges and a ferry ride underneath to the nearby island of Inchcolm.

Explore along the Water of Leith, which wends its way west and north of the city to the sea at Leith. Arguably the most interesting stretch takes you through the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art and Dean Village’s former mills and workers’ houses, and on to Stockbridge. Keep an eye out for the Anthony Gormley statues along the way. And then there’s the rest of Scotland where history, culture and scenery are interwoven like colours in tartan.

Heading north over the Firth of Forth into Fife, there’s Dunfermline – the ancient capital of Scotland – to the home of golf in St Andrews.

You could also head west to Glasgow, Scotland’s largest city, and the Clyde region with all its maritime and industrial heritage. And south is the Scottish Border: nowadays the sweeping valleys, emerald forests and heather-clad moorlands are pretty tranquil, but they’re steeped in bloody battles, magnificent castles and literary greats to discover.

Insider tip:

If you’re really keen to duck the tourist crowds at the big attractions, aim for the end of the day rather than the start. Just make sure you don’t get locked in with the ghosts of Holyroodhouse!

Essential info

Population: 486,120
Languages: English
Timezone: GMT +0
International dialling code: +44
Visas: UK nationals and citizens of the EU/EEC and Switzerland don’t require a visa.
Currency: Pounds Sterling (£) – Scottish bank notes look different to English notes but are valid tender in the UK.
Highest viewpoint: Carlton Hill or – for more-fit walkers – Arthur’s Seat
Health issues: None
Recommended guidebook: Time Out: Edinburgh & the Best of Glasgow (2010) is broad and useful.
Web resources: The official Edinburgh festivals website is www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk; Cool Places have a great guide to Edinburgh too.
Useful apps: The Welcome to Scotland app (free, iPhone and Android) is good if you’re planning on exploring outside the capital.
Climate: July and August are normally the warmest months in Scotland, with temperatures of an average 19°C. May, June and September are also pleasantly warm. The weather can change quickly. Expect some rain.