Lyn Hughes heads north from Glasgow in search of whirlpools, wilderness and ancient sites.
There’s something about the light in Scotland. It seems to change almost as soon as you cross the border. All of a sudden, a whole new set of colours is added to the sky’s palette, and every hour the canvas is wiped clear to start again.
Such was the case one cool, autumnal morning on the banks of Loch Fyne, where the morning sun was fighting its way through the mists. An hour later the sky was a Mediterranean blue; an hour earlier a Glasgow grey. It rained later in the day, and we didn’t mind a bit. The coastal route we were following had so many spectacular and changing scenes that we’d grown used to the unexpected.
This might be one of the most sparsely populated corners of Britain, but there is plenty to keep visitors enthralled. Outdoor enthusiasts can follow trails through glens and up hillsides, on foot or on horseback. There are cruises, both sedate and more adventurous, on the lochs and coastal waters. And for rainy days, or more leisurely paced visitors, there are castles and ancient sites to explore, reflecting a rich culture that revels in its past.
The nation of Scotland was born here, when Kenneth McAlpin was proclaimed the first king of a unified country in 843AD. And Argyll is where Gaelic – still spoken in the region – first entered the country from the north of Ireland.
We wanted a bit of everything, and we got it. We walked around ancient stone circles and savoured magnificent meals of the best modern-day cuisine. We watched dolphins pass by our loch-side hotel, and swapped whisky-soaked tales in a local bar. And, inevitably, we used roll after roll of film trying to capture that magnificent Scottish light.
The little settlement of Crinan is a perfect place to pass the time, watching boats in the small harbour and gazing across the loch to the castle on the far bank. The hotel here is one of the best in the country. Crinan is also a base for two starkly different excursions:
The Crinan Canal – The canal opened in 1801 as a nine-mile shortcut between Loch Gilp and Loch Crinan. Although no longer used for commercial traffic, this impressive achievement is still used by fishing boats and pleasure craft, which have to negotiate its 15 locks. You don’t need a boat to enjoy the canal – a walk or cycle-ride along the towpath is very pleasant, passing by Mòine Mhór Nature Reserve and sites of historical significance – one stretch is said to be haunted by monks from a long-abandoned monastery.
Corryvreckan Whirlpool – Gemini Cruises runs a range of trips on a 28ft catamaran-hulled vessel. Seals, porpoises and bird life are regularly seen, but the highlight of the two-hour trip to the tip of the Isle of Jura is the Corryvreckan Whirpool. This phenomenon is an extraordinary confluence of currents that creates tidal waves, vortices and walls of water, with a calm spot at the centre. Gemini’s owner, Mike Murray, has 28 years’ experience, so hold tight and marvel at a wonder of nature www.gemini-crinan.co.uk
The route: The full route covers 149 miles (238km), starting at Tarbet at the north end of Loch Lochmond, following the shores of Loch Fyne, before heading northwards along the west coast, finishing up at Fort William, at the foot of Ben Nevis. Along the way there are areas of natural beauty, historic towns and archaeological sites to explore.
Loch Fyne is an appealing feature in its own right, with the Route following the north-west shore, and there are two places definitely worth stopping at.
Loch Fyne Oysters – This workers’ co-operative has a justified reputation for excellent seafood and local produce including cheese, Aran Ales and organic smoked salmon. You can stock up on quality produce in the shops, but book ahead or be prepared for a long wait for a table in the Oyster Bar (open all day) – it’s worth the hassle www.lochfyne.com
Inveraray – This handsome little 18th-century town has a number of attractions, most of which are open year-round. Inveraray Castle is the seat of the Clan Campbell, and present-day home of the Duke of Argyll. Much of the interior is the usual collection of paintings and stately home memorabilia, but the most interesting exhibits are a belt, sporran and dirk handle belonging to Rob Roy, as well as a letter written by him to his old chum, the second Duke of Argyll.
In Inveraray harbour you’ll find the Arctic Penguin, an old sailing vessel that has been turned into a maritime museum. For fine views of the loch and surrounding area, climb the 176 steps of the nearby church bell tower. Inveraray Jail is an award-winning museum, with reconstructed cells and courthouse brought to life through models, gruesome artifacts and role-playing guides. The George Hotel has a fantastic, old-fashioned bar with a good selection of beers, including real ales. While most of the tourist shops stock tacky Scottish kitsch, Natural Elements is a quality craft shop with works by local artisans.
With an exceptional concentration of intriguing standing stones, rock carvings and burial mounds (the largest, Nether Largie South, is over 5,000 years old), Kilmartin Glen is mainland Scotland’s premier prehistoric site. Of great historical significance is the sixth-century hill fort of Dunadd, royal seat of the first Scots. But start at the Museum of Ancient Culture in Kilmartin village for background info and decent sustenance in the café.
Scot An Sgeulaiche is a traditional storyteller who offers walking tours of the area .
Boat trips – Apart from the trips from Crinan, there are many opportunities to take excursions out to the islands, especially from Oban, or on the lochs.
Island excursions – Ferry services to the Western Isles mostly operate from Oban, with a reduced service in winter. The attractions are wildlife (seabirds and seals, plus the chance of porpoises, whales and otters), as well as the remote beauty of the islands themselves. The main operator is Caledonian MacBrayne .
If time is tight, there are day trips to Mull, Jura and Islay. Leave your car behind for a trip to the Isle of Kerrera, where you can walk or hire bikes to explore the coves and beaches, hangouts for seals and otters.
Walking – There is a network of fine footpaths in the Argyll Forest Park, which is where the Forestry Commission started its first plantation in 1935. Leaflets are available in local stores and information centres. There are also some spectacular walks around Glen Coe.
Horseriding – Appaloosa Holidays, Craobh Haven offers western riding. Argyll Trail Riding, Brenfield Farm, Ardrishaig offers week-long trail rides for experienced riders, plus daily rides and holidays for all standards.
Golf – There are courses all around Argyll, and many welcome visitors and rent out clubs. There are some excellent nine-hole courses – Dragon’s Tooth near Ballachulish is one of the most scenic and imaginative www. dragonstoothgolfcourse.co.uk
