A16. Chef Christophe Hille got his official "pizzaiolo" certification in Italy, where he learned the strict requirements for making genuine Neapolitan pizzas ― with special flour, limited toppings, and a wood-burning oven heated to exactly 800°. $; closed Tue. 2355 Chestnut St.; 415/771-2216.
Pauline's Pizza Pie. Pizzas at this Mission District favorite incorporate organic produce grown in the restaurant's garden. Nightly specials feature sophisticated toppings like heirloom Swiss chard and roasted potatoes. Or stick with the famous pesto pie. $$; closed Sun-Mon. 260 Valencia St.; 415/552-2050.
Pizzetta 211. There's always a wait at this stylish Inner Richmond hole-in-the-wall, with good reason. The smallish, thin-crusted pizzas are artful and delicate, with elegant toppings like rosemary, Fiore Sardo sheep's-milk cheese, and pine nuts. $$; closed Mon-Tue. 211 23rd Ave.; 415/379-9880.
Tommaso's. A consistent North Beach favorite owned by the same family since 1935. The secret to the chewy crust is the oak-fired brick oven, the West Coast's first. Try the spinach pie, which is topped with a brilliant green layer of garlicky, uncooked greens. $$; closed Mon. 1042 Kearny St.; 415/398-9696.
Vicolo. Patricia Unterman of the Hayes Street Grill owns this Hayes Valley hot spot, known for cornmeal-crusted pizzas sold by the slice or by the pan. Arrive early, since the restaurant closes at 8 (9 Fri-Sat). $$. 201 Ivy St.; 415/863-2382.
