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The ghosts and old roses loop
Gold mining was hard, dirty work, explains Peggy Ronning, curator at the California State Mining & Mineral Museum, as you step into the musty mine shaft. Miners inhaled noxious gases, endured cave-ins and explosions, she adds. But at least the mine was a democratic place―everybody had a ter
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Celebrate the eerie grandeur of Colorados Mesa Verde
Half in shadow, half in sun, the ruined city rests in the shelter of a sandstone cliff. Black-and-white-winged swifts dart past broken towers. A wind whistles through cracking walls. We pause to listen to the ranger.You can think of Cliff Palace, she tells us, as a 13th-century convention cente
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Houseboat hopping in Seattle
Seattles floating home community on Lake Union is a rare neighborhood, where homes erupt with exuberant color, quirky details, and lavish gardens, and theres an attitude that nothing is to be taken too seriously.Even though its changing ― prices are soaring, and the funky bohemian edge is in da
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Catch a wave in Cardiff
Its named for the capital of Wales, but Cardiff-by-the-Sea is pure California in spirit. In fact, this easily overlooked Encinitas community is all about the beach.A long stretch of sand, including prime surf spots and dramatic coastal bluffs, fronts Cardiff. To the south is San Elijo Lagoon, a
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Past and present meet
Its one of those perfect afternoons in Los Angeles - the
morning fog has cleared, a light breeze blows off the ocean, and
the temperature drifts into the mid-70s. The freeways are moving
and the city is wide open, there for the taking.
This is a Sunday to be outside. But downtown, a few thousa
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Ski deals
CALIFORNIA
Donner Ski Ranch,
530/426-3635
One of Californias oldest ski resorts. With snow sliders
decked in blue jeans and denim jackets, the rustic mom n pop
facility is like a 70s time capsule ― with prices to match.
What we love: The terrain has enough surprises to keep
everyone happy, a
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San Francisco home decor shops
THINK ABOUT IT: Do you really want another candlestick or throw pillow from the same place where your neighbors bought theirs? “We’re so overrun with mass-produced goods. I think we’re searching for items that are more human,” says Meg Mateo Ilasco, a Bay Area designer and author of Craft, Inc
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Secret garden
In the burgeoning East Village Arts District of Long Beach, theres a brand-new sculpture garden featuring works from Mexican, Chilean, Cuban, and other Latin American artists that make up the most significant collection of such sculpture in the country. And the best part? Hardly anyone knows ab
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Your guide to Hawaiis farms and local food products
For information, contact the Big Island Visitors Bureau (808/961-5797).FARMSHawaii AgVentures. The Big Island Farm Bureau program arranges tours covering individual farms, including Volcano Island Honey Co. and Wailea Agricultural Group. From $65; reservations required. www.hawaiiagventures.com
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Skykomish thrills
The Skykomish River never stops. From its headwaters high in
the Cascade Range in Washington, it plunges over falls, roars
through rapids, and barrels over riffles like a runaway train.
Making a gleeful, undammed dash for the Pacific Ocean, it creates a
series of pools, eddies, and runs that d
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More great cue in the Rockies
Rocky Mountain day trips and vacationsDURANGO, COSerious Texas Bar-B-Q. Texas transplants Cook and Joy Swanson know their way around a smoker, turning out tender beef brisket and hotter-than-a-Houston-summer sausage links. But the must-have meat at this temple of Texas cue is the impossibly moi
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Rediscover the Presidio of San Francisco
Spread before us is a flight of crisp whites, a plate of prosciutto-wrapped figs ― and, beyond a meticulously landscaped lawn, a peekaboo view of the Golden Gate Bridge.The patio at Pres a Vi is packed with pretty people, and though the restaurant is surrounded by eucalyptus-lined trails, there
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Artful loafing
When it comes to baking, natural simplicity has its virtues-ask anyone whos ever broken the golden brown crust of an artisan bread. These loaves are made the old-fashioned way: by hand. Starting with flour, water, salt, and yeast, theyre baked to chewy tenderness on a hearth that re-creates the
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Rain world
Most people, inexplicably, choose not to hike the Olympic
Peninsula rain forests in the rain. In July, when precipitation
averages a miserly 2.72 inches, 4,000 people bustle through the
Olympic National Park Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center each day.
Barely 50 a day brave Decembers 20.29-inch dr
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Five great suppers for night owls
HEALDSBURGBarndiva. In a soaring mahogany barn just off Healdsburg town square, try fare like crispy Sonoma duck watercress salad. Come early to sip a caipirinha under lantern-strung trees in the garden. $$$; dinner until 11 Wed- Sun. 231 Center St.; www.barndiva.com or 707/431-0100.SACRAMENTOK
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Best of Balboa Park
The comforting thing about San Diegos Balboa Park is that it doesnt seem to change much. But poke around a bit on your next visit and youll see that a lot has been going on. Here are some of the highlights.Casa de Balboa on El Prado houses an expanded Museum of Photographic Arts (MoPA). Quadrup
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Worlds away, just north of L.A.
Set snugly against the foothills of the San Gabriel Mountains, tiny Sierra Madre is a window into the valleys rural past just 10 miles northeast of downtown L.A. In late fall, tree-lined neighborhoods blaze with color, local dogs snooze under the tables at the many sidewalk cafes, and hikers ta
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Grand Canyon in winter
Winter is a great time to visit the Grand Canyon. Daytime temperatures average in the 40s; nighttime temperatures can dip into the single digits.Get oriented at the Canyon View Information Plaza, a short walk from Mather Point. Designed as the terminus for Grand Canyon National Parks proposed t
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High and dry in Rampart Reservoir
Late spring can be sketchy for Colorado fitniks looking for snowless, high-country, single-track rides (or hikes). If the law of averages prevails, though, the trail around Rampart Reservoir (at 9,000 feet in elevation) near Woodland Park can satiate preseason cravings with some of the best hig
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Kitchen confidence
Five years ago, Michael and Naomi Hebberoy were working at two of Portlands finest restaurants, as a busboy and a dishwasher, respectively. Today, customers are calling from Tokyo and New York to make reservations at the couples latest venture, Clarklewis, a restaurant thats propelled them to t
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