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Stairways to heaven
This month, 300 feet above downtown San Francisco, the
lofty, leafy neighborhood of Russian Hill bursts into bloom. Tucked
away in the alleys and steep stairways of the citys north side are
several pocket gardens and green retreats that make for a
delightful day of strolling.
Macondray Lane (o
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Explore Tomales Bay
Weve been hiking for hours along the Inverness Ridge Trail, above the shining blue ribbon of Tomales Bay, and were ravenous. Maybe its all the gazing at the water that leads my boyfriend, Peter, and me to look at each other and mouth the same word: oysters. Twenty minutes later, were sitting at
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A winter visit to the Skagit Valley
The Upper Skagit Valley begins just east of I-5 in the town of
Sedro-Woolley on State 20, and it ends 61 miles farther east at the
south end of Ross Lake (where the highway is closed for the
winter). For a travel planner contact the
Sedro-Woolley Chamber of Commerce
(
www.sedro-woolley.com,
8
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Celestial smogasbord
The pleasure of picnics lies in their variety. I like olives, pickles, a couple of cheeses, wine plus iced tea, and lots of cookies and cake.The summer concerts at Mt. Hamiltons Lick Observatory, 19 miles east and 4,200 feet above San Jose, provide a perfect picnic opportunity. Not just for a m
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Avila Beach, CA: Wine, Waves, and Restaurants
The central coast doesn’t always fit nicely into one of the classic California archetypes. Is it Gidget and surfers and sunsets? Or is it great rolling vineyards and striped green fields?The answer, of course, is that it’s both. And tiny, out-of-the-way Avila Beach—with its sunny microclimate,
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Jane Smiley in Carmel Valley
On setting her new novel,
Ten Days in the Hills, in Hollywood:
For Americans, Hollywood just looms huge. Its a feature of our
environment, like Mt. Everest.
Her all-time favorite movies:
In no special order,
Tom Jones,
Ashes and Diamonds ― a great Polish movie ―
Pennies from Heaven, and
Th
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Five great fish and chips in Washington
Port TownsendThe Landfall Restaurant. Chips here partner with pollack, oysters, calamari, or shrimp. Check out the ship-mast forest of Point Hudson Marina from the octagonal dining room. $; breakfast and lunch daily. 412 Water St.; 360/385-5814.SeattleAlki Crab & Fish Co. Succulent cod and
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Napa, the grand tour
Press the switch to open the curtains in your valley-view room at the Poetry Inn, and youre suspended with the primary-striped hot-air balloons of postcard fame. Pedal up the Silverado Trail to the Miner Family villa, climb the steps, look west over your shoulder, and a world-class view is your
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Ashland onstage
Its a late-summer nights dream: Dancers whirl to music thats part Renaissance and part rock and roll, while an audience gathers, delighted with the show before them, anticipating the more formal theater to come. This is the Oregon Shakespeare Festivals Green Show, which runs each night before t
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Winter comes to Evergreen
Set deep in the foothills less than an hour west of Denvers skyscrapers, tiny Evergreen―with its historic downtown and ice-skating lake―carries on a love affair with winter that starts with the holidays.As soon as the ice is safely solid, Evergreen Lake (29614 Upper Bear Creek Rd.; 303/512-9300
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Santa Fes Railyard revival
Shabby bohemian chic has never been Santa Fes style. Sure, its most distinctive city buildings are made of mud, but its arts scene and civic soul have long had a lustrous, upscale classicism. Which makes whats happening in this industrial, 50-acre lot ―once used as a switching ground for trains
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The Maynard Dixon sky
Its not that the log house and studio arent handsome. Theyre just hard to notice against a landscape that conks you on the head with its glory: the narrow valley of the Virgin River, the castellated cliffs with names like Dianas Throne and Sugar Knoll, the infinite denim blue sky.The view was w
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Inside Tassajara, California’s Original Zen Retreat
The first gong I hear isn’t really a gong but a gentle ding-ding-ding as a monk moves down the path in front of my cabin. I struggle to my feet, grab my water bottle, and shuffle out into the pitch-dark on my way to morning meditation. It’s 5:20 a.m. and I’m wondering, What am I doing here?“You
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Artistic architect
Architects today seldom hunch over drafting tables and
T-squares - they create on computers, like most of us. But some of
them miss the tactile sensation of drawing lines on paper and
giving life to forms directly, through their hands. The old way,
somehow, seems more like art.
And its art, de
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Mango madness
Theres something about mangoes that inspires obsession. Shoppers at the Santa Monica Farmers Market are used to finding delicious fruit like Snow Queen white nectarines and Persian mulberries, but they really go wild when Deborah Chamberlain shows up with her mangoes, grown at Wong Farms in Mec
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Lush moss gardens
We cant think of a better way to welcome spring than with a
walk through a brilliantly green moss garden. Outside Japan, the
best place to get an up-close look is in the lush Northwest, where
several beloved public gardens have moss collections. Head out now,
after rain has left the gardens fre
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Tiki time in Southern California
BEVERLY HILLSTrader Vics. The Beverly Hiltons secret weapon for nearly 50 years, this posh restaurant and bar is famous for its potent Mai Tai ($9.75) and the fascinating crowd it attracts. 9876 Wilshire Blvd.; 310/276-6345.EL SEGUNDOPurple Orchid. Puffer-fish light fixtures hang from the ceili
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Inland beaches
Just about everyone who lives in Northern California is familiar with the regions ocean-beach experience. First you set up your towel and apply sunscreen, despite the complete absence of sun. Then you venture into the water up to your ankles, and your feet promptly go numb. When you attempt to
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Hawaii Volcanoes National Park activities
Take a hike. The National Park Service leads regular hikes through the park. You can get a schedule online (nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/events.htm) or at Kilauea Visitor Center. Other guided hiking options include the Kilauea hikes led by Hawaii Forest & Trail (hawaii-forest.com).Ride a bike
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Moss Landing travel planner
Safe harborMoss Landing is roughly halfway between Santa Cruz and Monterey on State 1. Call ahead for boating reservations and to confirm winter hours for shops. For general information, contact Moss Landing Chamber of Commerce (831/633-4501 or www.monterey-bay.net/ml).ActivitiesElkhorn Slough
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